The Vault: Pocket Watch and Albert Chain by Australian Jeweller Henry F. Hutton
To kickstart The Kalmar Vault series we begin with two significant pieces of Australian jewellery history. From the Kalmar’s private collection comes a fantastic pocket watch and Albert chain from acclaimed jeweller and watchmaker, Mr. Henry F Hutton. “The business founded by Henry Hutton around 1880 became one of the premier retail jewellery establishments in Ballarat, Victoria.” (Cavill, Cocks & Grace: 1992). The town of Ballarat in Victoria was one of Australia’s most significant gold mining towns during the mid-19th century. The gold rush saw prospectors migrate to towns such as Bathurst, Buninyong and Ballarat. This brought an influx of many Colonial jewellers who settled and set up businesses in the towns. Hutton worked out of his shopfront on Stuart Street in the second half of the 19th century between the 1880s to late 1950s. It was there that Hutton gained notoriety for his quality jewellery and skilled watchmaking.
Card Box Photograph, Huttons the Jewellers advertisement, Ballarat circa 1916
Although the Kalmar’s have owned other pieces of Hutton’s work this exceptional Albert chain and pocket watch is a piece which remains in their private collection. “Because of its great rarity, Australian jewellery of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries is now eagerly sought after by collectors and museums alike” (Schofield, A & Fahy, K: 1990). The pieces are not only of exceptional quality but have fantastic significance to Australia’s history.
The Albert Chain: Albert chains were originally created for the purpose of fastening a pocket-watch to a men’s waistcoat. Named after the style of watch chain worn by Prince Albert the chain traditionally comprised of a T-bar at one end that would affix to a button hole and a swivel hook at the other to attach to the pocket watch. This Albert chain is of this traditional design but with exceptionally ornate detailing.
“One thing which distinguishes Australian jewellery of the mid-nineteenth century is its generous use of gold which was so abundant. Australian gold watch chains, based closely on the type made popular in England by Prince Albert, are usually much heavier than the English ones: the same principle applies to Australian gold fob seals and brooches” (Schofield, A & Fahy, K: 1990). 
Crafted in 18ct yellow gold the piece features two twisted chains held in place with two sliding mechanisms. At the end of the chain hangs the traditional T-Bar and ornate chain tassel. Each surface of the gold has incredible hand-engraved details which feature beautiful floral patterns. A ‘Hutton’ maker’s mark can be found embossed on the bottom bail of the chain.
The Pocket Watch: The pocket watch case, also crafted in 18ct yellow gold, features exceptional detailing on either side. On one side, a shield with an ornate wreath of floral and filigree engraving surrounding it. The other side, features the same wreath pattern but with a bouquet of flowers in the center. The watch-face is also decorated with floral designs and roman numerals upon the dial. Sitting underneath the centre twelve are the words “Henry F. Hutton Ballaarat”, this is interesting as it not only depicts the maker’s name but also the traditional spelling of the city, which later dropped the additional ‘a’ from its title.
These two incredible pieces of Australian history are such fantastic examples of the quality of work being produced by Australian jewellers throughout the 19th century. Many pieces of jewellery from this era tell the history of our country, from the gold rush, colonization, societal changes and the appreciation of native flora and fauna. To find out more about other significant Australian jewellers read a brief history of Australian jewellery.
Shop Antique Australian Jewellery
Sources:
First Image Courtesy of the Victorian Collections
In Conversation: Highlights from the 2022 Catalogue with Damien Kalmar
Patek Philippe made in 1952, page 42.
This year has been a difficult one for many but throughout these challenges we must always find something to look forward to. For the jewellery and watch lovers out there, The Kalmar Antiques annual catalogue may just be that something! This curated selection of antique offerings is an exciting snapshot into these incredible items from bygone eras. We sat down with Gemmologist, Diamond Grader, Valuer and Director of Kalmar Antiques, Damien Kalmar, to discuss highlights from this year’s catalogue.
After another challenging year in New South Wales you must be excited to be re-opened and presenting Kalmar Antiques’ annual catalogue. What can people expect to find in the year’s offering?
Besides the traditional range of antiques that we carry, we also purchased quite a substantial amount of antique pocket watch keys. These pieces are full of charm and also make fabulous pendants!
We have also expanded our range of vintage enamel butterfly brooches from the 1930s. These pieces have such fantastic vibrant colours and are so versatile to wear. Our collection includes pieces from many different European jewellers including, most notably, Danish jeweller David Andersen.
On top of this, we also acquired two truly amazing early Australian antique sterling silver pieces from the 1870’s– one, a centrepiece and the other an inkwell which features real emu eggs. The detail in these pieces fantastically capture Australian history and are just incredibly unique items that you couldn’t find anywhere else in the world.
The front cover features an extraordinary antique demi parure, what can you tell us about this piece?
Yes, it really is amazing! It dates from the 1870’s and really takes you back to a time of high society. Unlike other sets that we have had in the past, both the earrings and brooch are quite substantial in size and highlighted with enamel and pearls.
In terms of jewellery, there are so many highlights in this catalogue. Which are some of your favourite pieces?
Easily, any and all of the early Australian jewellery I always adore, especially the two silver art pieces I mentioned previously. They really are a must-see!
My affinity for Australian jewellery means I just can’t go past this magnificent brooch attributed to Sydney jeweller, Alfred Lorking. This piece has so much incredible detail and depicts a fantastic naturalistic design. The natural pearls used to form the image of a bunch of grapes is incredibly delicate but also adds such an amazing tactile component to the piece. The border of the brooch, crafted in 15ct gold, has been created to simulate wooden branches. The level of detail captured in this piece is a true testament to the skill and talent that Alfred Lorking had.
Another fantastic piece of Australian history is the vintage brooch by Rhoda Wager. Wager was a prominent Australian jeweller throughout the 1920’s to 1940’s. Most of her jewellery was made in silver, so it is exciting to have this fantastic piece made in both silver and gold.
And finally, the serpent necklace on page 33 is by far the finest that I have ever seen, let alone had the privilege of selling. The graduation of the chain links is so impressive when we consider the hand-made nature of the piece all those years ago. What’s more extraordinary is the detail of the serpent’s head and heart pendant that is set with a large cabochon cut garnet.
Another fantastic jewellery piece is the lava cameo bracelet that is featured on page 33. The six carved panels are a testament to the skills of these experienced carvers. The lava itself has beautiful soft, muted tones and depicts six cherubs.
Omega Constellation by Andrew Grima, page 41.
Kalmar Antiques offers a fantastic range of vintage watches and timepieces. What are a few key pieces that we can expect to find in the catalogue?
This year has uncovered some exciting timepieces, with the two standout pieces being the Omega Constellation watch designed by the great Andrew Grima. This piece features an incredibly detailed, 18ct yellow gold bracelet and a glass and crown that is made from faceted citrine.
Then there is the vintage Patek Philippe from 1952, that comes with not only its original box and papers, but an extensive 50+ pages of service history and communication between the original owner and Patek Philippe. This timepiece really is an exceptional piece of history that is highly sort after by any watch collector.
To shop the latest catalogue and see these, and many more, incredible pieces for yourself shop online here or pick up a copy in-store.
Kalmar Antiques own 16 carat rose gold
Here is a brief article on Kalmar Antiques’ very own and very beautiful 16 carat rose gold.
The story of how we came about 16 carat gold actually goes back to a lovely young couple who purchased an antique snake ring from us that was made in Birmingham in the late 1800’s in what was hallmarked as 15 carat gold.
The Unique Beauty and Sentiment of the Antique Engagement Ring
Well, it worked on me. My husband offered me a very pretty 18k white-gold diamond and blue-sapphire ring, with a combination of fine filigree and engraving. It was beautiful, surely, but I loved him and so I said yes. It wasn’t long before I was in love with the antique wedding ring and since then, I’ve been singing the praises of the value, beauty and unique nature of an antique ring.